The Monastery of San Juan stands as a historical monument that has withstood the passage of time, bearing witness to centuries of history. This piece seeks to delve into the monastery’s rich past, its distinct architecture, and its enduring relevance in the present era.
History of The Monastery of San Juan
Founded in 1091 by Alfonso VI and his wife Constanza, the Monastery of Saint John initially served as a chapel to inter the Cluniac monk Adelelmo, also known as Saint Lesmes, the city’s patron. For centuries, the monastery offered refuge to pilgrims journeying to Santiago.
Architecture and Transformation
The monastery underwent a significant metamorphosis in the 15th century, due to a fire that razed the original structure. From its Gothic past, the ruins of the church, the cloister, and the chapter house, all dating back to the 16th century, have been preserved. In what was once its church stands an impressive Romanesque portal from Cerezo de Río Tirón, a deeply significant and striking piece within Spanish Romanesque art.
The Romanesque Portal: A Rescued Treasure
One of the most remarkable treasures of the Monastery of San Juan is the 12th century Romanesque portal, originally belonging to the Church of Nuestra Señora of La Llana, located in the town of Cerezo de Río Tirón, Burgos. This portal was disassembled in the first half of the 20th century to be shipped to the United States, but it was seized by the police in Vitoria and ultimately installed in the Paseo de la Isla. In 2019, it was moved to its current location in the Monastery of Saint John, where it is now protected under a substantial cover.
The portal was created by the disciples of the so-called “second artist of the Cloister of Silos”, in the last third of the 12th century. It features three archivolts; the second realistically and naturally depicts the 24 elders of the Apocalypse, while the third is a curious collection of animals. Despite its turbulent history, traces of its original paint can still be seen.
The Marceliano Santa Maria Municipal Museum
The Monastery of Saint John houses the Marceliano Santa Maria Municipal Museum, dedicated to this renowned Burgos painter (1866-1952). Among his works, some paintings dedicated to El Cid stand out. The most famous one, titled “Se va ensanchando Castilla” (“Castilla is Expanding”), now presides over the main staircase of the Burgos City Hall. The museum exhibits a significant sample of his work, offering a visual and nearly tactile approach to the landscapes of Castilla, its people and traditions, from a perspective that connects with the writers of the Generation of ’98.
The Monastery of San Juan today
Today, the Monastery of San Juan remains a place of cultural and touristic interest. It houses the Marceliano Santa Maria Municipal Museum, dedicated to this renowned Burgos painter. Moreover, it continues to serve as a milestone for pilgrims on their journey to Santiago de Compostela, keeping its long-standing tradition of hospitality alive.
The Monastery of Saint John stands as a testament to the rich history of Burgos and a monument that has withstood the passage of time. Its unique architecture, fascinating history, and current relevance make this monastery a place well worth visiting.
Rehabilitation and Current Use
In the 21st century, the monastery has undergone a significant process of restoration and rehabilitation. A modern wooden cover was constructed to protect the ruins from Burgos’ extreme weather, providing a 1,300m² multipurpose cultural space. This intervention was awarded the Europa Nostra Prize in the category of Conservation and adaptation to new uses in 2017.
Conclusion
The Monastery of San Juan is a monument of immense historical importance in Burgos, not only for its rich history and unique architecture but also for its ongoing relevance as a cultural and tourist space. The restoration and rehabilitation of the monastery have allowed this monument to continue to be a place of interest for visitors and a testament to the rich history of Burgos. Whether it’s for its impressive Romanesque portal, its museum dedicated to Marceliano Santa Maria, or its role as a landmark on the Camino de Santiago, the Monastery of Saint John is a destination that is truly worth visiting.
