Nestled in Plaza de San Juan, flanked by the Arch of San Juan and the Monastery of San Juan, the Church of San Lesmes stands as an edifice of profound historical and cultural significance, not only to the city but also to the sojourners of the Camino de Santiago. This gothic sanctuary, erected in the 14th and 15th centuries, rises from the remnants of the old Church of San Juan Evangelista, a living testament to the rich history of Burgos.
Who was Saint Lesmes?
Saint Lesmes Abad, born around 1035, was a Benedictine monk from France. His life was a beacon of piety and generosity; from his youth, he dispersed his wealth among the needy and embarked on a pilgrimage to Rome. He ascended to the role of abbot at the monastery of La Chaise-Dieu in Auvergne, France. His influence rippled to Spain when Queen Constanza of Burgundy, also of French origin, requested him to supplant the Mozarabic liturgy with the Roman one.
His valour and leadership were further demonstrated during the reconquest of Toledo in 1085, where he stirred the Castilian army to ford the River Tagus to infiltrate the city. His passing in 1097 marked the end of a life of service, but the onset of his veneration as a saint, especially for his dedication to the poor and the sick.
Origins of the Church of San Lesmes
The genesis of the Church of San Lesmes dates back to one of the hospitals that provided aid to the poor and pilgrims journeying towards Santiago. This hospital, known as the Hospital of San Juan, gained prominence when it was bequeathed to a French Benedictine monk, Adelelmus, also known as Saint Lesmes, in the year 1091. Where the chapel of the hospital once stood, the Church of San Lesmes was built, only to be demolished in 1367. In the late 14th century, King Juan II granted nearby lands for the construction of a new sanctuary, which stands to this day.
The Treasures of the Church of San Lesmes
Gothic in style, the church’s exterior boasts a prominent main entrance, a rose window, and a bell tower. The main entrance features a grand door embellished with scenes from the saint’s life. Inside, one can admire numerous artworks, most notably an unpainted wooden High Altar and a stone pulpit, reputed to be the finest in the city. Furthermore, the church houses a magnificent Flemish altarpiece from the Salamanca Chapel, dated to the late 15th century and created in Antwerp, as well as a Renaissance-style choir.
Tomb of San Lesmes
Situated in the church’s central area lies the tomb of San Lesmes, the patron saint of the city. This tomb, crafted in alabaster with the saint’s image carved into the lid, is one of the church’s most prized possessions.
The Church of San Lesmes: A Center for Worship and Devotion
The Church of San Lesmes is not just a historic and architectural building, but also a place of worship and devotion. The church is the final resting place of San Lesmes, the patron saint of the city, whose tomb is housed within the church.
In addition to being a place of worship, the Church of San Lesmes also plays an important role in the cultural life of Burgos. The church hosts a series of events and activities throughout the year, including concerts, exhibitions, and lectures, which draw visitors from across the region and beyond.
The Church of San Lesmes is a true treasure of Burgos. With its rich history, its impressive architecture, and its role as a center of worship and devotion, the church is a testament to the rich cultural and spiritual life of the city. Whether you’re interested in history, architecture, art, or spirituality, a visit to the Church of San Lesmes is an experience you won’t want to miss.
