The Church of San Esteban stands as a historic monument that has withstood the test of time. This remarkable Gothic structure, erected between the late 13th and early 14th centuries, bears witness to the region’s rich history and culture. Today, the church houses the Retablo Museum, a space dedicated to the exhibition of Renaissance and Baroque altarpieces.
History and Architecture
The Church of San Esteban is situated in the upper part of the city, adjacent to the Burgos Castle. This parish was one of the most important during the Middle Ages but has recently ceased its parochial functions, being designated as a Diocesan Museum.
The current church, built in a Gothic style, was primarily constructed between the late 13th and early 14th centuries. The proximity to the castle caused occasional harm to the church. During the siege of 1475 in the Castilian Succession War, it suffered damages that necessitated the reconstruction of the rose window, carried out in 1479, as well as the repair of the tower and pillars in 1485.
Notable Features
The exterior of the Church of San Esteban is distinguished by its polygonal apses, pierced by elongated windows, which stand out above the rest of the urban landscape. At the entrance, there is the main portal, flanked by slender pinnacles, following the models established in the cathedral cloister.
The Exterior of the Church of San Esteban
The main facade of the Church of San Esteban, facing west, is notable for its grandeur. This is further accentuated by a tower erected above the front section of the nave. Its solid appearance, with corner buttresses and the attached structure housing a spiral staircase, is lightened by the magnificent perforated rose window, akin to those found in the Cathedral, opening in its lower section, preceded by a balcony with a balustrade.
The Gothic portal, flanked by two slender pinnacles, was conceived in the likeness of those built in the cathedral cloister during the second half of the 13th century. At the upper part, there is a representation of the archaic motif, derived directly from Romanesque art, known as Déesis. This iconographic theme is also repeated in the Coronation Door of the Cathedral. Here, Christ the Judge is depicted enthroned beneath the Sun and the Moon, while the Virgin Mary, Saint John, and two angels intercede before Him.
The Interior of the Church
The interior of the church features a basilica plan with three aisles divided into four bays, the central one being taller than the side aisles. The pillars are cylindrical and reinforced with attached slender columns. The sanctuary is enclosed by a triple apse, with the central nave’s apse being pentagonal. Adjacent to the Epistle side (south) of the nave, there is an irregularly shaped cloister.
Church Furnishings
San Esteban preserves several altarpieces that are part of the Retablo Museum collection. In its original location, at the sanctuary, the Main Altarpiece is displayed. This piece, with neoclassical lines dating from the late 18th to early 19th century, is gilded and composed of two bodies divided into three sections, topped by a Calvary scene.
Retablo Museum
Located within the church, the Retablo Museum houses a collection of Renaissance and Baroque altarpieces from various towns within the diocese. While many of the exhibited pieces belong to the church itself, starting with its Main Altarpiece, the collection spans the 16th, 17th, and 18th centuries. Additionally, a section of goldsmithing is displayed in the upper choir.
The Cloister and the Sacristy
The cloister, built in the 14th century, has a trapezoidal shape and rises on wide semicircular arches that rest on sturdy intermediate buttresses. Some of the arches on the courtyard side are embedded within the structure. The galleries house a few funerary tombstones and now serve as part of the Retablo Museum’s premises, with access to the museum from the street precisely through here.
The sacristy contains a noteworthy Hispano-Flemish painting from the late 15th century depicting the Last Supper, a work by Alonso de Sedano. There is also a documented panel of Saint Francis of Assisi, painted around 1488 by Diego de la Cruz, showcasing the meticulous anecdotal style typical of Flemish-influenced art. A seated wooden sculpture of Saint Andrew is believed to come from the main altarpiece crafted by Gil de Siloé, displaying a similar artistic style.
Conclusion
The Church of San Esteban stands as a historic monument that reflects the rich history and culture of Burgos. Although no longer in use as a parish, its historical and architectural significance lives on through the Retablo Museum. This monument serves as a testament to Burgos’ past and serves as a reminder of the beauty and grandeur of Gothic architecture.
